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GreenGondwana

in Madhya Pradesh; Ahilya Fort

Ahilya Fort looms above the river Narmada, a river so holy that the mere sight of it is said to wash away ones sins. Ahilya is one of those places that really feels too wonderful to be missed. Maheshwar is a small, old fashioned pilgrim town, with winding streets and a comfortably slow pace of life, but the real glory of it all emerges as one approaches the river and the ghats, with great temples to Shiva, and the Fort itself. Driving through the gates of the Fort one feels transported back several hundred years, albeit with all the comforts of the twenty-first century. If you are lucky, Prince Shivaji Rao Holkar, your host, will be in residence, but either way you will be scooped up with maternal tenderness by housekeeper Kuntabai and Ahilya's fine team of kind and courteous staff. Bedrooms are exquisitely furnished; wood, copper and stone keep any sense of the modern world at bay; fresh flowers float in ever altering designs in pots and tanks; and hundreds of tiny oil lamps will light your way to dinner.

 The Ahilya Fort boat is always on hand for one to view the Fort from the river herself, tea and cake or beer and snacks appearing miraculously from a basket depending on the time of day. Longer overnight boat trips with moonlit picnics and river side camping can be arranged with advance notice.
The ruined hilltop city of Mandu is near enough for a day trip, as is the temple town of Omkareshwar, but you may find it hard to drag yourself away. 
www.ahilyafort.com


  

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